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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.